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It had been a
special time: lamp-lit nights with the sound of
gamelan music
playing in the distance,
amazing food,
friendly people.
While
living there, I’d become
friends with
Jean-Marc, a Swiss-
French anthropologist
studying Balinese
culture.
We hadn’t spoken for
years, but I managed to track him down
via Skype.
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He was still
living in Bali, in the up-island town of Ubud.
Jean-Marc was
overjoyed to hear from me again, and immediately extended an invitation
for us to
visit.
He knew of a secluded,
private bungalow
that we could rent on the outskirts of town, and was happy to
make the arrangements for us.
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I jumped at the chance.
Kate had never been to
Asia, and at
first seemed reluctant to travel such a
long distance.
But as she
started doing her research,
she became
more and more intrigued by Bali, and by the
town of Ubud in
particular.
The cultural capital of the
island, Ubud is a town
deeply steeped in Balinese
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Finally convinced, Kate agreed to
come with me.
I splurged, and
booked a
one-month trip for mid-February.
_______________________ We arrived at Denpasar airport after a 15-
hour flight via
Hong Kong.
The climate felt
thick:
hot, humid, with the
scent of
spices, wood
smoke and
diesel mixing in the air.
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It was still the
rainy season, so there were fewer tourists
about, and the pace was more
relaxed than I expected.
Kate - exhausted from the long trip but wide-
eyed with
excitement - gazed out the
window of the taxi as we drove up into the hill
country towards Ubud.
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She looked a bit lost, but also tremendously
happy.
Slightly flushed with the heat,
her hair was
pinned up
off her neck.
She wore a loose cotton blouse,
comfortable silk harem
pants, and practical
sandals.
Although she hadn’t visited
many tropical countries, she’d
done her research for this trip, and looked
every bit the seasoned traveller. 100
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We arrived in Ubud late in the afternoon, and the taxi took us
straight to the bungalow.
Jean-Marc had invited us to visit
him at
his house the
next day,
after we’d settled in.
As the taxi pulled up the
private drive, Kate stared, fascinated.
The
old,
colonial-era house had been built into the side of a large valley.
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Only one
storey tall, it had a steep,
pitched roof, and rested on tall wooden stilts at the front.
It was shaded on
all sides by a deep, open
veranda.
In the far distance, rice paddies shimmered on the
other side of the valley.
A
small, winding
river sparkled on the valley floor below.
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There were no other houses
close by.
For Bali, the
place was incredibly private.
I pulled
our bags
out of the
taxi,
paid the driver, and stood there with
Kate,
drinking it in.
A
stray chicken ran noisily across the pathway into the
bushes.
Kate jumped,
surprised, and then giggled.
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We walked to the house.
Built
back in the early 1900’s, it was
very traditional.
Well-worn
teak plank floors glowed softly in the
late afternoon sun.
There was a small,
simple kitchen with a
sitting area, an open living
room, and a large
bedroom with an antique
four-
poster bed.
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A
mosquito net hung down over the bed, suspended from the
ceiling.
The
home’s wide eaves shaded the
huge wrap-around porch
from the tropical sun.
Outside, off the kitchen, was a large
secluded courtyard.
It was enclosed by a
tall stone wall
covered in flowering vines.
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An ancient
outdoor shower was built into the far corner.
The place was more than I could
have wished for.
Standing on
the front veranda, staring far down into the valley, Kate
looked mesmerized.
I took her by the hand, and
said, Jean-Marc said
there’s one more
thing. Miami
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tomorrow night.
Leading her down the steps at the
front of the house, we walked along a narrow path densely
bordered with high vegetation.
There was a clearing up ahead.
As we stepped out into the
open area, Kate gasped in surprise.
A small,
spring-fed infinity
pool had been built into the
hillside, overlooking the valley. Girls wellington
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Kate squealed, clapping her hands with delight.
She
threw her
arms around my neck and
kissed me.
_______________________ Bags unpacked, I introduced Kate to the intricacies of Balinese
plumbing.
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